Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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The Current Status of Cheoyongmu Performance Costumes toward a Cheoyongmu Clothes Design Proposal 현대 처용무복 현황과 공연복으로서 처용무복 디자인 제안
With its origins in the Silla Dynasty, and still currently practiced, Cheoyongmu is a performing art that epitomizes Korean sentiment and aesthetics. This study aims to identify the current status of traditional and contemporary Cheoyongmu performance costumes through a comparative analysis of each, examining the evolution of the latter in order to propose a design that aligns with the contemporary trend and is suitable for Cheoyongmu performances. The results of this study, which analyzed the contemporary Cheoyongmu costume, showed that the colors and materials of the current designs have not changed to any great extent from early costumes, unlike the shape, which has changed significantly, particularly in size, due to changes in body shape and performance movements. Therefore, this study proposes a design that is faithful to the essence of the dance in terms of colors and materials while fitting contemporary dancers’ body shapes and movements, laying the foundation for future improvements in performance costumes.
Key Words
처용무, 처용무복, 공연복, 디자인, 한국의 정재, Cheoyongmu, Cheoyongmu costume, Performance costume, Design, Korean performing dance
Pressure Evaluation and Leggings Modeling of Stretch Knit Materials by Body Parts
With leggings on the market reflecting the size system of young women, they are not suitable for the changing body shapes of women in their 40s and 50s, and in the clothing industry, it is necessary to accurately ascertain the appropriate garment pressure for various body parts to increase customer satisfaction. This study thus aims to develop tight leggings suitable for middle-aged women by analyzing the quantitative values of garment pressure and performing a subjective evaluation of wearing by body part. The results showed that satisfaction was found to be high when the tilt angle of the back crotch line was increased. Meanwhile, the pressure at the rear waist point was minimal, or 0.00 kPa, indicating that the rear waist area was not as affected by pressure as other areas. However, the pressure at the mid-patella was found to be 2.48 kPa; at the tibiale, 2.09 kPa; and at the waist point, less than 0.98 kPa. Pressure stronger than that was found to cause discomfort as age increases due to a decrease in the maximum and average blood flow rates; however, for the lower leg area, it was found that high garment pressure had a positive effect on physical activity.
Key Words
Middle-aged women, Leggings, Garment pressure, Subjective evaluation, Body parts
Review of Data and User Interface in Online Apparel Size Recommendation Systems 온라인 의류 사이즈 추천 시스템 데이터 및 사용자 인터페이스 분석
This paper examines the effectiveness of online clothing size recommendation systems, focusing on data utilization and user interface (UI) design. The challenges involved in selecting appropriate clothing sizes are a major factor behind high return rates in fashion e-commerce. As such, size recommendation systems that utilize advanced algorithms and personalized data to improve accuracy have emerged as a potential solution. By analyzing existing size recommendation systems and their integration with personalized algorithms, this study investigates how data-driven approaches―such as incorporating user body measurements, fit preferences, and purchase history―can enhance the accuracy of size predictions. The role of the user interface in improving customer engagement and trust in these systems is also explored, emphasizing the impact of clear and intuitive designs on user satisfaction. Through these analyses, the paper aims to identify current limitations and provide actionable insights for refining both the data architecture and user experience in size recommendation systems. Ultimately, this research seeks to offer valuable information to companies aiming to develop sophisticated systems, while also contributing to a more accurate and reliable size recommendation experience for customers.
Key Words
온라인 사이즈 추천 시스템, 개인 맞춤 추천, 치수체계, 사용자 경험, Online size recommendation system, Personalized recommendation, Sizing system, User experience
The Impact of Brand Fit of Chinese K-COS Social Platform Influencers on Flow and Online Purchase Intention for New Products 중국 K-COS 소셜 플랫폼 인플루언서의 브랜드 적합도가 몰입과 신제품 온라인 구매의도에 미치는 영향
The Impact of Brand Fit of Chinese K-COS Social Platform Influencers on Flow and Online Purchase Intention for New Products 중국 K-COS 소셜 플랫폼 인플루언서의 브랜드 적합도가 몰입과 신제품 온라인 구매의도에 미치는 영향
This study investigated how the fit between influencers and brands affects consumer behavior for new Korean cosmetics in the Chinese market. It also analyzed the indirect effect of flow on the relationship between brand fit and online purchase intention. Using the elaboration likelihood model, the study examined the moderating effects of the central route and peripheral routes on the relationships between brand fit and flow, brand fit and online purchase intention, and flow and online purchase intention. The study involved 527 female consumers in their 20s and 30s, with data analyzed using SPSS Statistics 27 and hypothesis testing performed with the PROCESS (model 4) macro. The results showed that brand fit positively influences online purchase intention, with flow serving as a mediator. The central and peripheral routes moderated the relationships between brand fit, flow, and online purchase intention. Specifically, consumers who preferred the central route were more interested in the direct impact of brand fit on online purchase intention. In contrast, consumers with a high level of the peripheral route were more easily influenced by brand fit, leading to increased flow. Moreover, consumers with a low level of the peripheral route showed a greater influence on online purchase intention.
Key Words
소셜 플랫폼 인플루언서, 브랜드 적합도, 몰입, 온라인 구매의도, 정교화 가능성 모델, Social platform influencer, Brand fit, Flow, Online purchase intention, Elaboration likelihood model
Korean Athleisure Brand's Internationalization -A Case Study of Xexymix, Andar, and Mulawear- 한국 애슬레저 브랜드의 해외 진출 -젝시믹스, 안다르, 뮬라웨어 사례 연구-
최민주 Minjoo Choi , 한윤정 Yunjeong Han , 김진아 Jina Kim , 우홍주 Hongjoo Woo
Despite the rapid growth of the global athleisure apparel market, there has been limited research on athleisure brands’ internationalization. To fill this gap, this study carried out a case study, investigating the internationalization patterns and foreign market entry strategies of leading athleisure brands in South Korea Xexymix, Andar, and Mulawear by integrating the stages theory and Dunning's eclectic theory (OLI model). The findings were as follows. The three brands began their expansion in Asia, following the stages theory; however, they adopted a hybrid approach to foreign market entries, combining traditional entry modes (e.g., subsidiaries and exports) with cross-border E-commerce (CBEC). To strengthen their internationalization strategies, Xexymix and Andar leveraged their parent companies’ multinational expertise, enhancing ownership advantages, while all three brands strengthened internationalization through robust distribution systems. However, Andar and Mulawear faced challenges entering the U.S. market due to limited market knowledge. As such, this study sheds light on Korean athleisure brands’ commonly adopted internationalization patterns and strategies, offering empirical evidence to internationalization theories and practical insights for other athleisure brands seeking global expansion.
Key Words
Athleisure, Internationalization, Stages theory, Eclectic theory, Market entry, 애슬레저, 국제화, 단계 이론, 절충 이론, 시장 진입
Advertising Messages in a Global Crisis and Therapeutic Shopping Motivation -The Effects of Appeal Types and Framing- 글로벌 위기 상황의 광고 메시지와 치유적 구매동기 -소구유형 및 프레이밍 효과-
Advertising Messages in a Global Crisis and Therapeutic Shopping Motivation -The Effects of Appeal Types and Framing- 글로벌 위기 상황의 광고 메시지와 치유적 구매동기 -소구유형 및 프레이밍 효과-
This study aimed to test how advertising messages lead to therapeutic shopping motivation in the context of a global crisis, focusing on the effects of appeal types and framing. Taking the most recent global crisis, this study first analyzed advertisements that appeared during the COVID-19 pandemic to identify the most frequent appeal types, which, following Maslow's hierarchy of needs theory, were revealed as hygiene/safety, human relationships, and challenge/self-actualization. Then, a between-subjects experiment was designed with 3 (hygiene/ safety, human relations, challenge/self-actualization) x 2 (positive, negative message framing) stimuli. An analysis of 312 responses confirmed that the human relation appeal type effected the highest therapeutic shopping motivation; moreover, the motivation was higher when this appeal type was negatively framed. This study also confirmed the regulatory fit effect, suggesting that the promotion-focused group was likely to receive therapeutic shopping motivation in a positive framing. These findings contribute to the retail therapy literature by providing empirical evidence that therapeutic shopping motivation can be promoted by capitalizing on appropriate advertising message appeal types and framing in a global crisis. This study also offers significant managerial implications for effective advertising strategies by understanding consumers’ needs during such a crisis.
Key Words
Retail therapy, Therapeutic shopping motivation, Message framing, Regulatory fit theory, Maslow’s hierarchy of needs theory, 리테일 테라피, 치유적 구매동기, 메시지 프레이밍, 조절초점 이론, 매슬로우 욕구단계이론
Reproducible Process of 3D Representative Head Model for Helmet Design -Focusing on Korean School-Age Children-
This study aimed to develop a reproducible 3D head model for helmet design, specifically tailored to the unique head shape characteristics of Korean school-age children. The research addressed the limitations of the EN 960 standard and sought to create a head sizing system that would improve fit and safety for this demographic. The head dimensions of 3,344 Korean children aged 7 to 13 were comparatively analyzed with the EN 960 headform standard. Discrepancies in head size and morphology were identified. A representative head size of 535 mm in circumference was selected, and ten 3D head scans matching this average were combined to create a new representative model. The study employed a four-step process to ensure the reproducibility of the 3D model. The new 3D model for size code 535 exhibited a 7.6 mm larger breadth and an 8.4 mm smaller length compared to the EN 960 standard. This new sizing system increased population coverage from 69.3% to 91.4%, ensuring a more accurate and ergonomic fit for Korean children. This new head model offers a reliable method for designing ergonomically optimized safety equipment, and its reproducible process can be adapted for other populations.
Key Words
3D Head model, Head sizing system, Protective helmet, Children headform
Development of a Patient Uniform for Bedridden Women Based on the Zero-waste Cutting Technique 제로 웨이스트 커팅 기반 요양병원 여성 와상환자복 개발
진미순 Misoon Jin , 곽선경 Seongyeong Kwak , 박순지 Soonjee Park
This study aimed to develop a patient uniform for elderly bedridden women by conducting a market survey of commercially available patient uniforms and gathering feedback from patients and caregivers, eventually designing a user-centered garment that enhances satisfaction. In addition, the study sought to minimize fabric waste―a critical ESG consideration in clothing production―by implementing zero-waste marking using CAD software within allowable pattern design constraints. Reflecting the results of the user demand survey, the back center seam was removed to reduce pressure points for long-term bedridden patients, and a side slit with snap-button closures was added, allowing patients to turn onto their side and change clothes comfortably. As a result of the zero-waste cutting-based pattern design, the existing uniform's fabric efficiency of 77.42% with a waste rate of 22.58% was reduced to a fabric efficiency of 90.48% with a waste rate of 9.52% for the developed uniform in size M. Moreover, when sizes S, M, and L of the developed patient uniform were developed, the fabric efficiency increased to 91.72%, with a waste rate of 8.28%, indicating a significant improvement in fabric efficiency over existing patient uniform patterns.
Key Words
Zero-waste, Bedridden patients, Nursing care, Elderly female patients, Patient uniform, 제로 웨이스트, 와상 환자, 간병, 노년 여성 환자, 환자복
Effect of Drying Conditions on the Fragrance Performance of Fabric Softener Dryer Sheets 의류 건조기의 조건이 섬유 유연제 발향 성능에 미치는 영향
한지민 Jimin Han , 한유정 Yoojung Han , 김서연 Seoyoun Kim , 윤창상 Chang Sang Yun
The growing demand for energy-efficient home appliances has made clothes dryers increasingly common. Along with this trend, interest in fabric softener dryer sheets has also increased. Fabric softener dryer sheets enhance consumer satisfaction by adding fragrance to fabrics during drying, but their fragrance performance can change depending on drying conditions. This study explored how drying temperature and fabric moisture levels affect the fragrance strength of fabric softener dryer sheets. The results showed that fabric softener dryer sheets had a stronger fragrance at 60°C compared to 50°C. This is likely because the heat at 60°C caused the lightweight and volatile fragrance compounds to release more easily. Additionally, the fragrance was stronger on dry fabrics than on wet ones. This may be because most fragrance compounds in fabric softener dryer sheets are oil-friendly, allowing them to transfer more effectively in dry conditions. These findings suggest that the timing of adding fabric softener dryer sheets should be adjusted depending on how wet the fabrics are. This study provides useful insights for improving the fragrance performance of fabric softener dryer sheets during drying and could support further research on clothes dryers and dryer-specific fabric softeners.
Analysis of the Current Status and Development Directions for the Effective Use of Traditional Silk for Hanbok -In-Depth Interviews with Hanbok Designers- 한복용 전통 실크의 효과적 활용을 위한 현황 분석과 개발 방향 -한복 디자이너들의 의견을 중심으로-
Analysis of the Current Status and Development Directions for the Effective Use of Traditional Silk for Hanbok -In-Depth Interviews with Hanbok Designers- 한복용 전통 실크의 효과적 활용을 위한 현황 분석과 개발 방향 -한복 디자이너들의 의견을 중심으로-
This study conducted in-depth interviews with 10 Hanbok designers to assess the current status of the Hanbok silk market, identify issues in Hanbok quality, and propose directions for improving it. While demand for traditional Hanbok silk has risen due to increasing interest in Hanbok, the designers pointed out that the quality of the silk has declined. Functional issues such as poor durability and low sweat fastness were highlighted, along with the lack of diversity in colors and patterns. They suggested several measures to address these issues: 1) increasing yarn content to enhance durability and strength, 2) improving functionality by utilizing blended fibers and various weaving techniques, 3) applying diverse after-treatment processes to improve performance, and 4) expanding the diversity of colors and patterns while preserving the traditional identity of the fabric. They emphasized that these improvements would not only enhance the silk's quality but also make it more suitable for contemporary use while maintaining its cultural heritage. This study's findings provide a foundation for future development in the traditional Hanbok silk market, contributing to the growth of both the silk and Hanbok industries.
Key Words
Hanbok, Improvement of silk quality, In-depth interviewing, Silk industry, Traditional silk, 한복, 실크 품질 개선, 심층면담, 실크 산업, 전통 실크
A Study on Gold Imprint Patterns on Doturak Daenggi Since the Late Joseon Dynasty 조선 후기 이후 도투락댕기의 금박문양 연구
This study examines the gold imprint patterns on the Doturak Daenggi, a traditional hair adornment worn by brides from the Joseon Dynasty to the modern era. By analyzing 73 artifacts from the late Joseon period to modern times, the study explores the types, meanings, and compositional styles of these gold imprint patterns using museum catalogs and online archives. The gold imprint patterns include plant(peony, plum blossom, lotus, pomegranate, orchid), animal(phoenix, crane, bat), human(young boys), character(longevity, happiness), and seven treasures motifs, arranged in various combinations. These patterns are categorized into three main types based on the top shape: “Bu” character, flying phoenix, and standing phoenix. The patterns on the strands are further subdivided into nine detailed types (a-f): Types a and b show diverse, creative styles, and these are integrated into type c, which forms the foundation for types d and e. while type f marks a simplification of patterns and the introduction of modern elements. This study categorizes the gold imprint patterns on the Doturak Daenggi and provides essential data for traditional costume research and cultural content development. Nonetheless, further research is needed to explore regional and temporal variations in more depth.
The Background and Formative Characteristics of the Buddhist Embroidery Created under the Patronage of Queen Dowager Gongui in the Early Joseon Dynasty 조선 전기 공의왕대비 발원 불교자수의 조성 배경과 조형적 특성
The Background and Formative Characteristics of the Buddhist Embroidery Created under the Patronage of Queen Dowager Gongui in the Early Joseon Dynasty 조선 전기 공의왕대비 발원 불교자수의 조성 배경과 조형적 특성
This study examines the background and formative characteristics of the Buddhist embroidery created under the patronage of Queen Dowager Gongui in the form of Kāṣāya and housed in the National Folk Museum of Korea. A production date of 1552 inscribed on the back of the artifact makes it the earliest surviving embroidered Kāṣāya in Korea. Crafted with multicolored silk threads, gold thread embroidery, and satin fabric, the Kāṣāya holds significant value for the study of Buddhist art and the history of garments. Despite the early Joseon Dynasty's policy of promoting Confucianism while suppressing Buddhism, Queen Dowager Gongui commissioned this Kāṣāya to pray for the rebirth of the late King Injong in the Pure Land. This study highlights the close association between the Kāṣāya’s creation and Amitābha belief. A comparative analysis with other Buddhist embroidered artifacts from East Asia established that the four seasons flower motif depicted in the embroidery symbolizes the Pure Land of Amitābha. Furthermore, a direct examination of the artifact's formative characteristics and historical records and artifacts from similar periods revealed the uniqueness and historical significance of the Kāṣāya.
Key Words
Buddhist embroidery works, Embroidered Buddha statue, Embroidered Kāṣāya, Four seasons flower pattern, Queen Inseong, 불교자수, 수불, 자수가사, 사양화, 인성왕후
Dyeing Properties and Skin Health Functions of Cotton and Nylon/PU Knits Dyed with Sea Buckthorn Leaves 비타민나무 잎 열수추출물을 이용한 면과 나일론/PU 편성물의 염색성과 피부건강기능성
The aim of this study was to develop a novel textile with skin health functions by dyeing two different knits (cotton jersey, nylon/ polyurethane (PU) tricot) with sea buckthorn (SB) leaf extract. The dyeing conditions for each knit were optimized as for temperature, time, and dye bath pH, and the color characteristics and dyeing fastness were investigated. As for skin health functions, the antimicrobial activities and UV-protective properties of the dyed knits were examined. As results, the optimal dyeing conditions for cotton were 60℃ and 60 min, while they were 80℃ and 60 min for nylon/PU with yellow/red and yellow hues and light, soft, and dull tones. The dyeuptake was shown as the strongest under acidic dye solutions such as at 4.06 of pH. The dyeing fastness of the two fibers was found to be good or excellent, with grades of 4-5 except for light fastness. Regarding skin health functions, excellent antimicrobial activities were revealed with microbial reduction rates higher than 99% against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae as well as excellent UV-protective properties for both knits. These results suggest that SB leaf extract is a novel resource for natural dyeing to provide skin health functions to textiles.
Key Words
Dyieng, Skin health functions, Cotton, Nylon/PU, Sea buckthorn leaves, 염색, 피부건강기능성, 면, 나일론/PU, 비타민나무 잎
