Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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A Study of Deconstructivist Design Expression Methods and Aesthetic Values -An Analysis of Contemporary Outdoor Wear- 아웃도어 웨어의 해체주의적 디자인 표현 방법과 미적 가치 연구
A Study of Deconstructivist Design Expression Methods and Aesthetic Values -An Analysis of Contemporary Outdoor Wear- 아웃도어 웨어의 해체주의적 디자인 표현 방법과 미적 가치 연구
This study analyzes deconstructivist design expression methods and aesthetic values in contemporary outdoor wear. Through a systematic analysis of 586 cases collected from 2019 to 2024, eight deconstructivist characteristics were identified as such: the fragmentary combination of heterogeneous elements, overlapping creating volume, decentralization in pursuit of innovation, dynamic rhythm emphasizing mobility, inclusive convergence, playfulness in pursuit of visual entertainment, indeterminacy inducing user participation, and communicability creating empathy. These characteristics are expressed through five design elements―silhouette, detail, color, material, and styling method with the research revealing the embodiment of six aesthetic values: positive message delivery, openness, inclusiveness, everydayness, youth culture expressiveness, and the pursuit of novelty. Among these, dynamic rhythm appeared most frequently (24.2%), reflecting its importance in contemporary outdoor wear. This study contributes to our understanding of how outdoor wear has evolved from purely functional garments to fashion items that reflect contemporary social and cultural sensibilities, providing practical design strategies for brand differentiation through aesthetic and cultural value creation.
Key Words
Deconstructivism, Outdoor wear, Design characteristics, Aesthetic value, Design expression method, 해체주의, 아웃도어 웨어, 디자인 특성, 미적 가치, 디자인 표현 방법
Impact of Series Strategy Consistency on Fashion Brand Authenticity and Commitment 시리즈 전략의 일관성이 패션 브랜드의 진정성과 몰입에 미치는 영향
This study examines how perceived consistency in series-based fashion product planning shapes brand authenticity, brand commitment, and product attitudes. Focusing on character collaboration series, perceived consistency refers to consumers’ recognition of a coherent strategic pattern across repeated product releases, while brand authenticity is conceptualized through two dimensions: credibility and originality. To analyze the influence of perceived consistency, data were collected from 375 consumers aged 20 to 50 with prior fashion purchase experience, controlling for character preference to more accurately capture the effects of the series-based planning strategy. Structural equation modeling revealed that perceived consistency significantly enhances both credibility and originality, which in turn strengthens brand commitment, which then positively influences product attitudes. A mediation analysis confirmed that credibility and originality fully mediate the relationship between perceived consistency and brand commitment. These findings suggest that when consumers perceive collaboration products as strategically coherent rather than repetitive, they view the brand as more authentic and form stronger emotional connections. In conclusion, maintaining a consistent thematic direction while introducing creative variation across series installments can enhance perceived authenticity and improve product evaluations, offering practical guidance for brands managing multi-season collaboration lines.
Key Words
Series strategy, Perceived consistency, Brand authenticity, Brand commitment, Product attitude, 시리즈 전략, 지각된 일관성, 브랜드 진정성, 브랜드 몰입, 제품 태도
Exploring the Online Sneakerhead Community Through a Post-Subcultural Lens 온라인 스니커헤드 커뮤니티의 포스트 하위문화적 특성
This study analyzes the online sneakerhead community from a post-subcultural perspective to understand how consumer-centric subcultures emerge and evolve within digital contexts. It uses netnography to identify and discuss five key post-subcultural characteristics of the online sneakerhead community: temporary networks and immediate solidarity, distinction through subcultural capital, consumer-oriented lifestyles, ambivalent attitudes toward media, and gatekeeping. The results indicate that members of the community form transient, fluid networks and exhibit immediate solidarity facilitated by rapid information sharing on digital platforms. Members also employ subcultural capital to achieve distinction, thereby differentiating themselves from outsiders and establishing internal hierarchies between leaders and followers. Consumption behaviors related to sneakers serve as a core practice of the consumer-oriented lifestyle of sneakerheads. Additionally, members exhibit an ambivalent attitude toward media, leveraging its benefits for cultural expansion while simultaneously criticizing its commercial aspect to protect themselves from cultural dilution. Finally, this study identifies gatekeeping as a crucial function through which the community sets its own cultural norms and significantly influences sneaker valuation and consumer behavior.
Key Words
Sneakerhead, Online community, Netnography, Post-subculture, Subcultural capital, 스니커헤드, 온라인 커뮤니티, 네트노그라피, 포스트 하위문화, 하위문화자본
Establishing Design Criteria for Ergonomic Lumbar Supports Through 3D Body Shape and Anthropometric Analysis of Older Women 고령여성의 3D 인체 형상 및 치수 분석을 통한 인체공학적 허리보조기 설계 기준 확립
Establishing Design Criteria for Ergonomic Lumbar Supports Through 3D Body Shape and Anthropometric Analysis of Older Women 고령여성의 3D 인체 형상 및 치수 분석을 통한 인체공학적 허리보조기 설계 기준 확립
This study aimed to establish design criteria for ergonomic lumbar supports for older women based on an analysis of 3D body shape and anthropometric data. To reflect age-related morphological changes such as abdominal protrusion and thoracic descent, anatomical landmarks identified in previous literature were redefined as surface reference points recognizable in 3D body scans. Using these reference points, 43 measurement items were identified, consisting of 35 items extracted from the existing Size Korea protocol and 8 additional items defined by the researchers. Principal component analysis identified six critical factors affecting 3D body shape and anthropometry in older women. In terms of lumbar support design, these represent body girth, proportion, and alignment. Through cluster analysis using these factor scores, 361 Korean women aged 70-85 were classified into three distinct body types: long torso, upper abdominal dominance, and compact trunk. The results revealed that body shape variations in older women are primarily determined by vertical proportions and the abdominal-pelvic relationship, rather than by absolute size. Building on these findings, this study proposed practical design criteria that reflect the structural and proportional characteristics of older women's trunks in the design of ergonomic lumbar supports to enhance fit, comfort, and functionality in both customization and mass-production applications.
Key Words
Lumbar support, 3D body scan, Anthropometric landmarks, Older women, Ergonomic design, 허리보조기, 3D 바디 스캔, 인체측정 랜드마크, 고령여성, 인간공학적 디자인
The Paradox of Performing Body Diversity -An Analysis of Plus-size Fashion Influencers’ Content and User Feedback- 플러스사이즈 패션 인플루언서의 신체 다양성 수행의 역설 -콘텐츠와 사용자 반응 분석-
The Paradox of Performing Body Diversity -An Analysis of Plus-size Fashion Influencers’ Content and User Feedback- 플러스사이즈 패션 인플루언서의 신체 다양성 수행의 역설 -콘텐츠와 사용자 반응 분석-
In contemporary society, where diversity is increasingly valued, social media has become a platform for marginalized groups, including individuals with diverse body types, to express their identities. Plus-size fashion influencers challenge societal norms and reshape stereotypes through their content, becoming influential figures with significant followings. This study investigates body diversity by analyzing the content created by influencers on social media and assessing how user responses impact content production. The findings are as follows: First, plus-size fashion influencers’ accounts are becoming more commercialized through group purchases and product sales driven by user demand. Second, while these influencers advocate for self-confidence and body positivity, they also post content related to slimming and dieting, highlighting a complexity that many users fail to notice. Third, in response to negative comments about their bodies, influencers manage communication by deleting comments, blocking accounts, or disabling the comment function. Fourth, most user reactions include positive comments from women who admire and support influencers’ bodies, guiding future content direction. This study highlights how plus-size fashion influencers and their interactions with users reflect evolving societal perspectives on body diversity.
Key Words
플러스사이즈 패션 인플루언서, 신체 다양성, 바디 포지티비티, 사용자 반응, Plus-size fashion influencer, Body diversity, Body positivity, User feedback
A Digital Image-Based Fabric Detergency Evaluation Program 디지털 이미지 분석 기반의 의류소재 세척성 평가 프로그램
In this study, a software program has been developed to evaluate fabric detergency quantitatively. The program analyzes digital images of original, contaminated, and washed fabrics captured and fused using a stereo- photometric system. It includes preprocessing functions such as automatic image fusion, color correction, and region-of-interest selection. From processed images, pixel-level K/S values are extracted to calculate fabric detergency (%), spatial evenness (%), and the corresponding visual distribution map. For program validation, cotton fabrics are artificially contaminated with black iron oxide particles and washed under three conditions representing high, medium, and low detergency levels. The detergency results obtained from the program are consistent with visual assessments and those from a spectrophotometer. The program reliably processes yellow iron oxide-contaminated fabrics, despite the challenges in visual evaluation. The developed program provides a faster, more efficient alternative for assessing fabric detergency through quantitative analysis and visualization of spatial evenness, compared to conventional spectrophotometric methods.
Key Words
Fabric detergency evaluation, Digital image analysis, Stereo-photometric system, K, S value analysis, Software program development, 직물 세척성 평가, 디지털 이미지 분석, 스테레오 포토메트릭 시스템, K, S 값 분석, 평가 프로그램 개발
The Impact of Korean and Chinese Consumers’ Consumption Values on Purchasing Behavior for Korean Clean Beauty Cosmetics-The Mediating Effect of Environmental Consciousness- 한·중 소비자의 소비가치가 한국 클린뷰티 화장품 구매행동에 미치는 영향-환경의식의 매개효과를 중심으로-
The Impact of Korean and Chinese Consumers’ Consumption Values on Purchasing Behavior for Korean Clean Beauty Cosmetics-The Mediating Effect of Environmental Consciousness- 한·중 소비자의 소비가치가 한국 클린뷰티 화장품 구매행동에 미치는 영향-환경의식의 매개효과를 중심으로-
This study investigates how consumption values shape environmental consciousness and clean beauty purchase behavior among Korean and Chinese consumers. Based on 703 valid survey responses analyzed using SPSS and AMOS 26.0, the findings reveal pronounced cross-cultural differences in the mechanisms linking values to behavior. Among Korean consumers, ethical values emerge as the strongest predictor of clean beauty purchases, operating primarily by strengthening perceived consumer effectiveness, subjective norms, and environmental knowledge. By contrast, Chinese consumers’ purchasing behavior is driven largely by trend-seeking values, which exert influence through social norms and environmental knowledge, while in some cases weakening perceptions of effectiveness. Economic values affect purchase behavior only indirectly, and emotional values play a relatively limited role in both contexts. Environmental consciousness functions as a key mediator, translating consumption values into behavior through both cognitive and social pathways. Multi-group analysis further indicates that Korean consumers are motivated chiefly by perceptions of personal efficacy, whereas Chinese consumers are more responsive to social norms and collective approval. Overall, the findings highlight culturally specific value-behavior pathways in sustainable consumption, offering important implications for tailoring clean beauty marketing strategies to distinct consumer motivations.
Key Words
Korean and Chinese consumers, Consumption value, Environmental consciousness, Clean beauty cosmetics purchasing behavior, 한·중 소비자, 소비가치, 환경의식, 클린뷰티 화장품 구매행동
A Study on Fashion Consumers’ Experiences with Generative AI-Based Chatbots -Examining the Relationships among Perceived Interactivity, Experience, and Behavioral Intention- 패션 소비자의 생성형 AI 기반 챗봇 사용경험에 관한 연구 -지각된 상호작용성과 사용경험, 행동의도의 관계를 중심으로-
A Study on Fashion Consumers’ Experiences with Generative AI-Based Chatbots -Examining the Relationships among Perceived Interactivity, Experience, and Behavioral Intention- 패션 소비자의 생성형 AI 기반 챗봇 사용경험에 관한 연구 -지각된 상호작용성과 사용경험, 행동의도의 관계를 중심으로-
This study empirically examines the mechanisms through which a core characteristic of generative AI- based chatbots-interactivity-shapes users’ cognitive, emotional, and relational experiences, and how these experiences ultimately influence behavioral intentions such as word-of-mouth and usage intentions. An online survey was conducted in February 2025 with 220 Korean men and women in their 20s and 30s who had prior experience using generative AI-based chatbots. The results indicate that users form distinct cognitive, emotional, and relational experiences in their interactions with generative AI-based chatbots, and that perceived interactivity positively affects all three dimensions of user experience. These experiential responses, in turn, enhance word-of-mouth intention, which subsequently increases usage intention. By empirically demonstrating the role of interactivity in linking chatbot design features to user experience and behavioral outcomes, this study extends existing research on generative AI- and chatbot-mediated communication. The findings also offer practical implications for the strategic design of generative AI-based chatbots and the development of personalized interaction strategies, highlighting the potential for chatbots as effective and practical marketing channels within the ongoing digital transformation of the fashion industry.
This study adopts a qualitative approach to explore the emotional consequences of upward comparisons that young adults experience while viewing Instagram posts by fashion influencers. Twenty women in their twenties who engaged with fashion influencers’ Instagram accounts were recruited through purposive and snowball sampling to participate in in-depth interviews. The findings identified five core usage contexts that structurally trigger upward comparisons: visual culture and algorithmic exposure; recognition-seeking and mimetic consumption; self-branding and digital signaling of identity; self-disclosure tension and emotional fatigue; and multi-persona strategies between main and secondary accounts. These contexts elicited three key emotional responses: malicious envy, rooted in perceived similarity yet aspirational superiority of influencers; relative deprivation, associated with perceived unearned privilege such as ideal body types or inherited wealth; and depression and anxiety, through repeated exposure to idealized peers and the cumulative emotional fatigue of comparison. These findings demonstrate how Instagram use in fashion-related contexts creates conditions in which upward comparison becomes habitual, shaping distinct negative emotions among young adults. This study contributes an emotion-based framework that advances our understanding of the psychological mechanisms through which fashion influencers affect digital self-perception and well-being.
Key Words
Upward comparison, Social comparison theory, Fashion influencer, Instagram, Negative emotions
Development and Evaluation of Silk-Like Hanbok Fabrics Using Hydrangea Pattern from the Joseon Dynasty 조선시대 수국문을 활용한 실크라이크 한복지 개발 및 평가
This study aimed to develop a silk-like Hanbok fabric, combining the luxury of silk with practical usability. The research method involved developing seven fabrics: one silk fabric, and six silk-like fabrics (P1 to P6) with different cross-sectional shapes of 100% polyester. Subsequently, mechanical properties were measured using the KES-FB system, and texture sensibility was assessed among 120 women aged 20 to 59. Seven Hanbok fabrics were developed using the hydrangea pattern from traditional Joseon Dynasty designs. Most silk-like fabrics exhibited mechanical properties similar to silk, with P6 showing the greatest deviation. All silk-like fabrics, except P6, had a texture sensibility similar to silk. P2, which has a high similarity to silk in terms of mechanical properties and texture sensitivity, was the most preferred among the silk-like fabrics developed in terms of touch and preference for the Hanbok feel. Flexibility, surface, coziness, stretchiness, and coolness were identified as key dimensions of texture sensibility. The findings confirm that silk fabrics woven with yarns of various irregular cross-sections, rather than circular ones, exhibit characteristics and sensibilities similar to Hanbok silk fabrics. Therefore, P1 to P5 fabrics are proposed as alternatives to silk used for Hanbok.
Key Words
Development of Hanbok fabric, Hydrangea pattern of the Joseon Dynasty, Mechanical properties, Silk-like fabric, Texture sensibility, 한복지 개발, 조선시대 수국문, 역학적 특성, 실크라이크 직물, 질감 감성
Experimental Research to Develop Apparel Manufacturing Technology Transfer Program Through Linkages between Designers, Technicians, and Trainees 디자이너와 기술자, 교육생 연계를 통한 의류제조 기술전수 프로그램 개발을 위한 실험 연구
김현정 Hyunjeong Kim , 김미영 Miyoung Kim , 이유진 Yujin Lee , 이경희 Kyunghee Lee
Experimental Research to Develop Apparel Manufacturing Technology Transfer Program Through Linkages between Designers, Technicians, and Trainees 디자이너와 기술자, 교육생 연계를 통한 의류제조 기술전수 프로그램 개발을 위한 실험 연구
김현정 Hyunjeong Kim , 김미영 Miyoung Kim , 이유진 Yujin Lee , 이경희 Kyunghee Lee
The clothing manufacturing cluster in Beomil-dong, Busan, is currently facing some social challenges, including an aging workforce and a lack of young talent. To address these issues, the Busan Beomil Apparel Manufacturing Specialized Support Center has been operating a living lab since 2022, engaging apparel technicians, trainees, and other stakeholders. This study thus summarizes the processes and outcomes of the living lab;s third year of experimental research developing an educational model in which trainees, matched with experienced technicians, acquire skills through project-based practical training by producing samples for designers. The primary objective was to refine and enhance this model through iterative experimental research and finally, to establish concrete guidelines for the future operation of technology transfer programs. Throughout the three-stage experimental research process, extensive qualitative data were collected via user research methods, including class observations, participant interviews, and trainee journals. After conducting an analysis of the data, the findings―including pain points, gain points, and participant needs―were synthesized, with corresponding ideas and guidelines developed according to the stages of the technology transfer program journey. Finally, a comprehensive roadmap for an in-depth training program aimed at cultivating skilled apparel manufacturing technicians was proposed.
Key Words
In-depth training in clothing manufacturing technology, Designer sample-based practical education, Experimentation research, Living lab, 의류제조기술 심화교육, 디자이너 샘플 기반 실습 교육, 실험 연구, 리빙랩
A Study on Non-Commissioned Officers’ and Enlisted Men’s Uniforms of the Korean Empire -Focusing on Jacket Artifacts- 대한제국기 하사졸 군복 연구 -상의 유물을 중심으로-
노무라미치요 Michiyo Nomura , 이민정 Min-jung Lee , 이지수 Ji-soo Lee , 박종래 Jong-rae Park , 이경미 Kyung-mee Lee
This study examines a military uniform artifact that scholars presume belonged to a non-commissioned officer (NCO) of the Korean Empire (Daehan Jeguk). No other surviving examples currently exist in Korea. To verify the artifact’s authenticity and historical context, the author collected and analyzed relevant military regulations, reviewed photographs from the period, and comparatively studied similar Japanese NCO uniforms from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The investigation revealed that the artifact closely aligns with the 1897 Army Uniform Regulations and exhibits structural features, such as a short-waisted jacket and elongated sleeves, consistent with the era’s functional military designs. Notable differences from Japanese uniforms, including collar shape, shoulder strap attachment, and the absence of side slits, suggest localized adaptations. Fabric analysis identified a wool twill outer layer and cotton lining, with slight differences in weave compared to Japanese examples. Virtual fitting using CLO3D indicated that the uniform would likely fit a soldier approximately 155cm in height with a chest circumference of 78cm. These findings support the interpretation that the artifact is an authentic Korean Empire NCO uniform, although further discoveries and textile analyses would bolster comparative studies.
Key Words
Military uniform, Korean Empire, NCO artifact, Meiji-era Japanese military uniform, CLO3D virtual fitting, 군복, 대한제국기, 하사졸 유물, 메이지 시대 일본 군복, CLO3D 가상 착의
Constructing a Traditional Hanbok Dataset for AI Training -Challenges in Digital Transformation- AI 학습용 전통 한복 데이터 구축에 관한 연구 -디지털 전환을 위한 도전과 과제-
오선희 Sun Hee Oh , 이정수 Jung Soo Lee , 김여경 Yeo Kyung Kim
This study examines the concepts and characteristics of traditional Hanbok, establishes a framework for collecting and classifying AI training data, and diagnoses issues arising during image collection to propose improvements. It assembled 1.1 million two-dimensional and three-dimensional images of garments and accessories in dressed and undressed states, capturing them at 10-20 degree intervals for full 360-degree coverage across the front, side, and back, under varied lighting, poses, and camera viewpoints. Master’s- and doctoral-level researchers designed and labeled a fifteen-field metadata schema,―covering type, subclass, period, usage, gender, age, status, item name, material, pattern, decorative technique, and color. Outfit combinations were collected in three stages by layering garments―adding outerwear over topwear and incorporating accessories―without duplication. Identified challenges include conflicts in period attribution owing to modern materials in replicas, ambiguity across transitional eras, unclear distinctions of use and social status, imbalances for underwear and socks, chroma-key backdrop failures for green hues, and color distortions in sheer weaves and gilded surfaces. The study proposes refined category boundaries, a controlled vocabulary and labeling guide, on-site expert verification, standardized capture and color criteria, and bias-mitigation measures. The resulting framework enables reliable training and supports academic, industrial, and policy applications.
Key Words
Artificial intelligence, Digital transformation, Metadata, Traditional Hanbok data, AI, 디지털 전환, 메타데이터, 전통 한복 데이터
