Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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The Fashionization Phenomenon of Sportswear Through Athleisure Wear 애슬레저 웨어를 통한 스포츠웨어의 패션화 현상
This study investigates the evolution of athleisure wear amid the blurring of boundaries between sport and fashion. Utilizing Colaizzi's phenomenological approach and drawing from social identity theory, this research presents in-depth interviews with 20 experts in physical education and clothing to examine their perceptions and attitudes towards the fashionization of sportswear. In terms of design and functionality, while sportswear is primarily focused on technical specifications and performance enhancement, athleisure wear is geared towards style, personal expression, and versatility in daily use. A variety of personal and social factors are found to influence the broad acceptance of the integration of sportswear into daily fashion. Interview responses demonstrated minimal evidence of in-group favoritism and bias against athleisure wear, indicating that approval of sportswear's fashionization is not limited to a particular gender or area of expertise. Participants’ sportswear choices were primarily influenced by the intensity of their activities, functional requirements, and aesthetic preferences. These findings highlight the increasing popularity of apparel that combines athletic performance and comfort with style, reflecting a market trend towards multifunctional clothing that meets both functional and aesthetic needs.
Key Words
Sportswear, Athleisure, Fashionization, Phenomenological study, Social identity theory, 스포츠웨어, 애슬레저, 패션화, 현상학 연구, 사회 정체성 이론
Effect of Fine Dust on the Degradation Behavior of Natural Dyed Fabrics 미세먼지가 천연염색 직물의 취화 거동에 미치는 영향
The level of fine dust in Korea is among the highest compared to major cities in advanced countries, with recent occurrences of extremely high levels persisting for extended periods. Fine dust can degrade textiles and affect the preservation of cultural heritage. This study investigated the impact of fine dust on silk and cotton fabrics. Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with gardenia, safflower, and indigo to produce yellow, red, and blue colors. Fine dust amounts were varied at 0, 0.5, and 1.5 g and subjected to accelerated aging. Surface color changes were measured before and after aging, and Scanning electron Microscope(SEM) and Infrared spectroscopy( FT-IR) analyses examined fiber morphology and structural changes. Fine dust influenced the color change of naturally dyed fabrics. SEM analysis showed silk maintained its fiber structure after 144 hours of artificial aging, while cotton with fine dust showed severe damage. FT-IR analysis indicated no chemical structural damage in silk, but cotton exhibited hydrogen bonding due to fine dust's acidic components. The tensile strength of silk decreased due to fibrillation, while cotton experienced less reduction. The study concludes that fine dust affects both the fading and degradation of naturally dyed fabrics.
This study investigated the impact of thermal comfort on cooling effectiveness in personal protective clothing. Coolants on the back and neck, along with a fan on the back, provided cooling. Participants walked on a treadmill at 4 km/h for 20 minutes in controlled environmental conditions (30.0±0.5℃, 60.0±5.0% RH, and 0.2±0.1 m/s). Before exercise, subjective assessments indicated a significant perception of coolness. After 15 minutes of exercise, participants who received cooling reported feeling less heat and humidity than those without cooling, although some heat and humidity were still perceived. Cooling after 15 minutes of exercise significantly influenced the task’s difficulty level. Microclimate temperature was 1.2-2.1℃ lower with cooling after 15 minutes but still outside the comfort range. Furthermore, without cooling, microclimate humidity increased before exercise and significantly during exercise, causing discomfort. With cooling, microclimate humidity after 15 minutes of exercise was about 10% lower than without it but still exceeded 80% RH. The mean skin temperature after 15 minutes was about 1.0℃ higher without cooling, and the protective clothing surface temperature was 0.3℃ lower with cooling. Despite cooling, discomfort developed quickly, indicating the need for improved systems.
Key Words
Personal protective clothing, Thermal comfort, Cooling, Subjective sensation, Microclimate, 전신 보호복, 열적 쾌적성, 냉각, 주관적 감각, 의복 내 기후
Coping with Online Reviews -The Effects of Fashion Firms’ Failure and Response Types-
Within the context of online reviews, this study investigates the impact of fashion firms’ failure and response types on consumer trust, focusing on the mediating role of perceived justice and expectation confirmation. Moreover, it examines how consumer age groups moderate these relationships. This study adopted a between-subject experimental design with eight stimuli: 2 (failure types: product and service) × 4 (response types: informational, affective, functional-immediate, and functional-delayed). Data were gathered via an online survey administered to 328 Korean consumers. Participants were randomly assigned one of the eight stimuli, which depicted either a product or service failure, subsequently assigned one of four distinct response types. The participants used validated scales to assess perceived justice, expectation confirmation, and trust. The results of a two-way multivariate analysis of variance indicated that informational responses to firms’ failures were most effective in enhancing perceived justice across product and service failures. A structural equation modeling analysis substantiated that perceived justice positively influenced trust through expectation confirmation. In addition, the intensity of these relationships varied markedly among different age groups. These findings enhance the online fashion retail industry by extending expectation confirmation theory and offering evidence-based strategies for addressing consumer complaints across various age demographics.
This study outlines a systematic approach to the design framework of civil defense uniforms that prioritizes mobility and protective functionality. The old civil defense uniforms were not suitable for civil defense duties in terms of durability and activity. Therefore, a new civil defense uniform suitable for disaster recovery with better water repellency and elongation was developed. This study tested and compared the mechanical properties of the materials used in the old long-sleeve jacket (OLJ), new long-sleeve jacket (NLJ), old volunteer vest (OV), and new volunteer vest (NV). Furthermore, wear trials for OLJ, NLJ, OV, and NV were conducted in two conditions: hot/humid (23.8℃/78% RH) and warm/dry (11.0℃/58.4% RH) that reflect the most probable working conditions of the civil defense personnel on disaster response duties. NLJ and NV received higher subjective evaluation scores for most of the 17 defined motions compared to OLJ and OV in both environmental conditions, likely due to the more stretchable fabrics and relaxed fit of the new civil defense uniforms. This research proposes a practical development process for government uniforms and workwear, including civil defense uniforms, emphasizing mobility and protection.
Key Words
Workwear, Government uniform, Wear trial, Textile properties, Disaster response
A Study on the Development of Men’s Suit Jacket Patterns With a Body Type Focus on Their Late 30s Using Virtual Fitting 버추얼 피팅을 활용한 30대 후반 남성의 체형유형별 정장재킷 패턴 개발에 관한 연구
A Study on the Development of Men’s Suit Jacket Patterns With a Body Type Focus on Their Late 30s Using Virtual Fitting 버추얼 피팅을 활용한 30대 후반 남성의 체형유형별 정장재킷 패턴 개발에 관한 연구
This study aimed to propose customized suit jacket patterns and size specifications by body type for men in their late 30s. The research focused on the body measurements of 256 men aged 35-39 from the 8th Korean Anthropometric Survey (2020) to identify body types and evaluate them using avatars in virtual fitting. The results of the body classification, based on the key body measurements required for jacket pattern design, were categorized into I-type, Y-type, O-type, and B-type. Virtual fitting evaluations indicated that body type-specific avatars generally received higher fit ratings than the average-sized avatar. Furthermore, the study identified that factors such as “chest circumference”, “front width”, “jacket length”, “V-zone depth”, “lapel length”, and “sleeve cap height and position” are crucial for achieving a better fit when adjusting ready-made garments to individual body types. Therefore, the key dimensions for customized suit jacket patterns for men by body type were established as follows: I-type-1710.39 mm, 983.90 mm (170-100); Y-type-1793.28 mm, 1023.76 mm (180-105); O-type-1773.77 mm, 1050.37 mm (175-105); B-type-1721.42 mm, 1075.26 mm (170-110).
Key Words
Customizing, Men’s formal jacket pattern, Body type, Virtual fitting, 커스터마이징, 남성 정장재킷 패턴, 체형구분, 가상착의
Impact of Reward-based Fashion Crowdfunding Features on Perceived Uncertainty, Trust, and Willingness to Participate 리워드형 패션크라우드펀딩의 속성이 불확실성, 신뢰, 크라우드펀딩 참여의도에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구
Impact of Reward-based Fashion Crowdfunding Features on Perceived Uncertainty, Trust, and Willingness to Participate 리워드형 패션크라우드펀딩의 속성이 불확실성, 신뢰, 크라우드펀딩 참여의도에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구
Crowdfunding has gained attention as a new form of investment, but due to its inherent uncertainty, cases of backer-related losses are also on the rise. Therefore, based on social exchange theory and uncertainty reduction theory, this study explores how the characteristics of reward-based fashion crowdfunding projects affect consumers’ perceived uncertainty, trust, and willingness to participate. A survey conducted with 291 adults in Korea revealed that the perceived informativeness, product quality, and fairness of rewards in fashion crowdfunding projects had a significant negative effect on consumers’ perceived uncertainty. Furthermore, perceived uncertainty had a significant negative effect on perceived trust. While perceived trust had a significant positive effect on the willingness to participate, perceived uncertainty did not directly affect it. However, perceived uncertainty fully mediated the relationship between perceived trust and willingness to participate, having a significant positive effect on willingness to participate. This study enhances the literature on fashion crowdfunding in the apparel sector and strengthens the academic foundation for this topic. Additionally, it emphasizes the importance of reducing consumer uncertainty in the crowdfunding participation mechanism, providing practical insights for developing strategies based on these findings.
This study developed scale for selfie involvement among the MZ generation (Millennials, born 1980-1994 and Generation Z, born 1995-2001), used it to classify selfie activity, and proposed subgroups for digital marketing. An online survey was conducted with 600 MZ generation men (n=300) and women (n=300) who had experience with selfie taking, used social media, and resided in the Seoul metropolitan area. The results found that selfie involvement consisted of four dimensions: selfie interest and importance, desire for recognition through image styling, trendiness, and stress related to selfie editing. Based on selfie involvement, participants were classified into four groups: Selfie Low-sumer, Selfie High-sumer, Selfie Fun-sumer, and Selfie General-sumer. Significant differences were observed in the demographic characteristics, mobile phone and app usage, selfie-taking behaviors, social networking service usage, and Instagram engagement among these groups. These findings highlight selfie involvement as a critical factor in understanding digital consumption behaviors of the MZ generation, providing a foundation to develop more targeted marketing strategies. This study offers a novel perspective of selfie habits by categorizing selfies as routine activities, moving beyond the predominant focus on the negative aspects of selfie editing.
This study aims to identify the types of fashion accessories imported from Japan during the port-opening era and analyze the characteristics of import trade. The research method is a literature study of trade statistics published in Japan in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The findings indicate that fashion accessories were divided into a total of 17 product types―shoes and boots, socks and stockings, hats, ornaments and cosmetics, gloves, handkerchiefs, buttons/buckles/hooks and eyes, scarves/ties/shawls, trimmings, pocket watches, and glasses. Toward the later stages of the port-opening period, the segmentation of items became more prominent, particularly in Japanese products compared to foreign imports. The total import value of fashion accessories was twice that of clothing, demonstrating quantitative growth during the port opening period. As 98.9% were Japanese products and the remainder were foreign products, Japanese products accounted for the majority. In the early days of the port opening, umbrellas represented the largest import value, but over time the demand for shoes and boots increased significantly, and they maintained the top rank after 1901.
Key Words
Fashion accessories, The port-opening era, Trade between Korea and Japan, 패션 액세서리, 개항기, 한국 일본 간 무역
The Impact of Mixed Reality Content Characterstics of Virtual Influencers on Content Attitude -Focusing on Spatial Background and Social Cues- 가상 인플루언서의 혼합현실 콘텐츠 특성이 콘텐츠 태도에 미치는 영향 -공간 배경과 인물 단서 중심으로-
The Impact of Mixed Reality Content Characterstics of Virtual Influencers on Content Attitude -Focusing on Spatial Background and Social Cues- 가상 인플루언서의 혼합현실 콘텐츠 특성이 콘텐츠 태도에 미치는 영향 -공간 배경과 인물 단서 중심으로-
This study explores the impact of mixed-reality characteristics-specifically, the shared sense of place and social cues (i.e., the presence of real/virtual human)-on the consumer perceptions of virtual influencers and their content attitude. A total of 295 consumers participated in the study; the data were analyzed using ANOVA and regression analyses. The results reveal significant differences in perceptions of social presence, authenticity, and attractiveness based on the degree of the shared sense of place experienced in virtual influencer content. A stronger shared sense of place is associated with more favorable perceptions of virtual influencers. Furthermore, the presence of social cues (i.e., the presence of real/virtual human) influences perceptions, particularly in terms of social presence and authenticity. Interestingly, solo virtual influencers are perceived more positively in these aspects than those who were presented with a real/virtual human. This study confirms that consumer perceptions of virtual influencers-shaped by mixed-reality characteristics-positively influence their content attitude.
Key Words
Mixed-reality, Virtual influencer, Shared sense of place, Social cue, Content attitude, 혼합현실, 가상 인플루언서, 공유된 장소감, 사회적 단서, 콘텐츠 태도
Effect of Scouring Substrate Fabric on the Peel Strength of 3D-Printed Composite Fabrics 바닥직물의 정련이 3D 프린팅 복합직물의 박리강도에 미치는 영향
This study aims to evaluate the effects of scouring and repeated washing on the adhesion between substrate fabric and 3D printed filaments to enhance the adhesion of 3D-printed composite fabrics (3D-PCF). Results showed that the scouring process effectively improved adhesion by removing contaminants from the fabric and reorganizing the fiber structure. This effect was particularly pronounced in cotton fabrics, where thickness, weight, fabric density, and contact angle increased, resulting in a significant enhancement in adhesion. In contrast, hydrophobic PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) fabrics showed little change after scouring. Repeated washing caused a decline in adhesion due to the softening of the fabric and 3D-printed filaments. This was caused by friction and the action of detergents, leading to a rearrangement of the pore structure. As the number of washing cycles increased, the reduction in peel strength became more pronounced. These findings suggest that additional surface treatments or coating technologies are necessary to maintain adhesion in applications where washing durability is crucial. This research provides a fundamental basis for improving the performance of 3D-PCF by proposing practical guidelines for enhancing adhesion between substrate fabric and 3D printed filaments.
After liberation, the Third branch of the “Korean independence army (KIA)” sent Contingent units across China to protect the Korean diaspora and integrate Korean-national soldiers into its ranks. These forces wore various military uniforms, previously undocumented in studies on KIA attire. This study examines photographs from six units, relevant uniform regulations, and personal memoirs to reveal details about the KIA's everyday life and attire. The units mainly wore uniforms inspired by the Chinese national revolutionary army and the KIA's “Army uniform protocol” and “Army insignia protocol,” incorporating modifications such as U.S.-influenced jackets, large badges on caps, and unique name tags not commonly seen in China. Evidence suggests that in Japanese-occupied areas, some forces acquired Japanese gear, including combat caps originally distributed to the Kwantung army in 1932, Manchukuo-style Concordia uniforms, and Japanese shin gunto. Additionally, this study explores uniforms for female members and unique styles worn by certain units. This research will be a valuable resource for future studies, historical analysis, and the reproduction of the KIA's military uniforms.
Key Words
Army insignia protocol, Army uniform protocol, Korean independence army, Military uniform, Contingent units, 육군휘장도안, 육군제복도안, 한국광복군, 군복, 군사특파단
Direct Effects of Moral Philosophies, Mediating Effect of Moral Intensity and Moderating Effect of Generation on the Purchase Behavior of Fashion Counterfeits among Korean Gen X and Y Women 한국 X세대와 Y세대 여성의 패션복제품 구매행동에 영향을 미치는 도덕철학 및 도덕적 강도의 매개 효과와 세대 조절 효과
Direct Effects of Moral Philosophies, Mediating Effect of Moral Intensity and Moderating Effect of Generation on the Purchase Behavior of Fashion Counterfeits among Korean Gen X and Y Women 한국 X세대와 Y세대 여성의 패션복제품 구매행동에 영향을 미치는 도덕철학 및 도덕적 강도의 매개 효과와 세대 조절 효과
This study examines how personal moral philosophies affect the purchase behavior of fashion counterfeits, by focusing on perceived moral intensity and generational difference. Data collected through an online survey for 393 Korean women of Gen X (n=197) and Gen Y (n=196) were analyzed using a multi-group CFA and a multi-group SEM analysis. The positive effect of idealism on perceived moral intensity was significant in Gen Y, and its direct effect on purchase behavior was not significant in the groups. The effect of relativism on perceived moral intensity was not significant for both generations but its positive effect on purchase behavior was significant for Gen X. The negative impact of perceived moral intensity on purchase behavior was significant in both generations. The mediating effect of moral intensity between idealism and Gen Y’s purchase behavior was significant. Generational differences were significant in the path coefficients of idealism directly influencing perceived moral intensity, and relativism directly influencing purchase behavior, confirming the moderating effect of generation in the two pathways. In conclusion, idealism acted as a factor inhibiting Gen Y’s purchase behavior of fashion counterfeits through perceived moral intensity, while relativism functioned to directly promote Gen X’s purchase behavior.
Key Words
Counterfeits, Idealism, Relativism, Moral intensity, Generational difference, 패션복제품, 이상주의, 상대주의, 도덕적 강도, 세대 간 차이
