Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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The Effect of Fashion Crowdfunding Project Characteristics on Supporter Responses and Crowdfunding Readiness 패션 크라우드펀딩 프로젝트 특성이 후원자 반응 및 크라우드펀딩 레디니스에 미치는 영향
장혜준 Hyejoon Jang , 황지영 Jiyoung Hwang , 안효선 Hyosun An , 박민정 Minjung Park
The Effect of Fashion Crowdfunding Project Characteristics on Supporter Responses and Crowdfunding Readiness 패션 크라우드펀딩 프로젝트 특성이 후원자 반응 및 크라우드펀딩 레디니스에 미치는 영향
장혜준 Hyejoon Jang , 황지영 Jiyoung Hwang , 안효선 Hyosun An , 박민정 Minjung Park
Crowdfunding, which raises funds from multiple people without traditional financial institutions, has gained attention for enabling fast and flexible funding. As crowdfunding expands in the fashion industry, founder-supporter relationships and interactions have become important, making the effect of project characteristics on supporter responses a critical issue. Drawing on social exchange theory, this study analyzes the relationship between fashion crowdfunding project characteristics and supporter responses. These were categorized into five dimensions: information quality, safety, interactivity, founder reputation, and storytelling. The study then empirically verified how these factors shape supporter satisfaction and trust. A survey of 400 adult women in Korea with crowdfunding experience yielded 393 valid responses, which were analyzed using SPSS 26.0 and AMOS 24.0. Results showed that information quality, safety, and founder reputation had significant positive effects on project satisfaction and trust, whereas interactivity and storytelling did not. In turn, both project satisfaction and trust significantly enhanced crowdfunding readiness. These findings expand the theoretical understanding of fashion crowdfunding and offer practical implications for effective marketing strategies.
Key Words
Fashion crowdfunding project characteristics, Supporter responses, Crowdfunding readiness, Social exchange theory, 패션 크라우드펀딩 프로젝트 특성, 후원자 반응, 크라우드펀딩 레디니스, 사회교환이론
Effects of Time Perspectives and Fashion Consciousness on Relationship Formation with Senior Fashion YouTubers 시간관과 패션의식이 시니어 패션 유튜버와의 관계 형성에 미치는 영향
With the advent of an aging society, social interest in senior YouTubers has increased; however, academic research on this topic remains limited. Notably, the growth of many prominent senior YouTubers has been supported by the interest and engagement of younger audiences. Therefore, this study aims to examine the psychological mechanisms underlying relationship formation between younger audiences and senior YouTubers. Specifically, the study investigates the relationships among five dimensions of time perspective, fashion consciousness, wishful identification, parasocial relationship, and recommendation intention. Data were collected through an online survey of 151 women in their 20s and 30s and analyzed using Partial Least Squares Path Modeling (PLS-PM). The results show that present-fatalistic, present-hedonistic, and future time perspectives significantly influence wishful identification, whereas past-negative and past-positive time perspectives have no significant effects. Stronger wishful identification with the senior fashion YouTuber leads to a stronger parasocial relationship. In addition, the parasocial relationship directly influences recommendation intention and mediates the relationship between wishful identification and recommendation intention. This study provides theoretical and practical insights into how senior YouTubers can develop content and build successful channels.
Key Words
Senior YouTuber, Time perspective, Fashion consciousness, Wishful identification, Parasocial relationship, 시니어 유튜버, 시간관, 패션의식, 동일화 갈망, 준사회적 관계
Class Polarization Behind the Democratization of Luxury Fashion 럭셔리 패션 민주화 이면의 계층 양극화
This study examines how the discourse of luxury fashion democratization reinforces consumer stratification within luxury brand systems. While luxury brands appear to broaden accessibility through diversified pricing strategies, digital communication, and broader consumer touchpoints, they continue to maintain internal hierarchies grounded in economic, cultural, and symbolic capital. Drawing on Bourdieu’s theory of capital and critical perspectives on neoliberal consumer culture, this study conducted in-depth interviews with six experienced sales professionals employed by major luxury fashion brands. The findings indicate that cumulative spending functions as a primary mechanism for legitimizing economic capital, while brand literacy, aesthetic discernment, and long-term familiarity with the brand operate as forms of cultural capital. These resources are selectively transformed into symbolic capital through access to exclusive services, private spaces, invitation-only events, and personalized recognition. The study argues that luxury democratization does not simply flatten luxury consumption. Rather, it operates as a strategic discourse that obscures the ongoing reproduction of distinction, exclusion, and internal gatekeeping within luxury fashion, thereby reinforcing class-based differentiation among consumers.
Virtual technologies such as the metaverse, NFTs, AR, and VR are fundamentally transforming communication between fashion brands and consumers. This study classifies types of virtual fashion communication, identifies the characteristics of convergent brand experience value, and examines the process of cultural capitalization as a strategic extension of brand value. The researcher conducted a literature review and analyzed 63 cases from high-end and global fashion brands between 2020 and 2024. The study classifies virtual fashion communication into four types based on purpose: Aesthetic (expressing a brand’s worldview and identity); immersive experience (inducing active consumer participation); commerce (connecting virtual and real worlds to drive purchases); and information-provided (delivering practical and emotional value simultaneously). It also conceives brand experience value as having six- dimensions: Utility, emotional, aesthetic, social, immersive, and expressing self-identity. The study applies Bourdieu’s theory of cultural capital to analyze virtual fashion communication as embodied, objectified, and institutionalized, demonstrating how convergent brand experience value undergoes cultural capitalization. Thus, virtual fashion communication functions as more than a marketing tool: It is a strategic mechanism through which brands accumulate sustainable cultural capital and deepen relationships with the digital native generation.
Key Words
Virtual fashion communication, Virtual technology, Brand experiential value, Metaverse fashion, Cultural capital, 버추얼 패션 커뮤니케이션, 버추얼 테크놀로지, 브랜드 경험가치, 메타버스 패션, 문화자본
A Study on Classification Learning of Knit Surface Images according to AI Classification Algorithms
This study compares several classification algorithms to identify which model displays the highest accuracy and generalization. It utilized an open-source data mining platform and an image analytics add-on to recognize and classify knit fabric structures. The researcher developed a structured workflow for image pre-processing, feature extraction, and classification, using Orange data mining software for image-based analysis. Fabric swatches came from five primary textile companies in Korea, with additional test samples sourced from external suppliers. After organizing the dataset into six groups (A-E and T), a digital microscope captured 3,960 images of 30 fabric sample classes from seven different angles. The study applied four machine learning models―random forest, logistic regression, k-nearest neighbors (kNN), and a neural network―and evaluated them using AUC, CA, F1 score, precision, recall, and MCC. Notably, kNN achieved the highest CA of 0.415, while the neural network demonstrated the best overall performance regarding class separability, achieving the highest AUC value of 0.644. These results indicate that the neural network most effectively distinguishes visually similar knit fabric structures, while random forest and logistic regression performed inferiorly. Overall, the study demonstrates a practical AI-based method for textile classification supporting intelligent systems in fabric identification.
Key Words
Knit fabric classification, Image analytics, Machine learning, Data mining software
Developing a Global Brand Index for K-Fashion -A Multidimensional Approach to Strategic Brand Valuation- K-패션 브랜드 글로벌 지수 개발 -브랜드 가치평가를 위한 다차원적 접근-
김하연 Ha Youn Kim , 이여진 Yeo Jin Lee , 신희진 Hee Jin Shin , 심영호 Youngho Sim
Although K-Fashion has gained global prominence driven by Hallyu, existing brand valuation models are insufficient, requiring an industry-specific framework to assess its global competitiveness. To address this gap, this study develops and validates a K-Fashion Global Brand Index that evaluates global competitiveness through a multidimensional and integrative approach. Drawing on the brand valuation literature and the OECD composite indicator framework, the index comprises five performance dimensions: financial performance, global market distribution performance, sustainability performance, digital marketing performance, and market influence performance. The index integrates brand-reported data, consumer evaluations (n = 800), and expert evaluations, applying a dual weighting structure based on budget allocation and an analytic hierarchy process. Empirical analysis of 30 K-Fashion brands demonstrates that the index effectively differentiates levels of global brand maturity and aligns with expert evaluations. Market influence and financial performance are the most influential dimensions, while sustainability provides insight into long-term global brand viability. Overall, the findings support the index’s reliability and practical applicability.
Key Words
K-Fashion brand, Brand performance measurement, Global brand index, Strategic brand valuation, Multidimensional evaluation, K-패션 브랜드, 브랜드 성과 측정, 글로벌 브랜드 인덱스, 전략적 브랜드 가치평가, 다차원 평가
Presentation Types and Expressive Characteristics of Contemporary Fashion Collections 현대 패션 컬렉션의 발표 방식과 표현 특성
While fashion shows have traditionally been central to brand identity communication, the range of presentation types has broadened to include lookbooks, fashion films, exhibition-type presentations, and digital experiences. To explore the evolution of fashion collection presentations and their characteristics, this study combined a literature review tracing developments from the mid-eighteenth century to 2024 with a case study of 52 recent collections. Drawing on Barthes’ fashion semiotics and McLuhan’s media theory, the study developed an analytical framework of three dimensions―fashion expression, model directing, and audience experience. The historical review identified five phases: the pre-Worth era, the emergence of the fashion show, the era of controlled disclosure, the mass media era, and the digital era. The analysis of contemporary collections revealed that while established presentation types have largely persisted since the COVID-19 pandemic, their expressive characteristics have undergone substantial transformation, with an emphasis on visible production, performative model directing, and participatory audience engagement. The findings provide academic and practical insights into how fashion communication evolves through the reconfiguration of expressive characteristics rather than changes in presentation types.
Key Words
Fashion collection, Presentation types, Fashion expression, Model directing, Audience experience, 패션 컬렉션 발표, 발표 방식, 패션 표현, 모델 연출, 관객 경험
Comparative Study of Actual and Virtual Fitting Through the Replication of the Wonsam Set of Madam Haepyeong Yoon's (1660-1701) Burial Attire 해평윤씨(1660∼1701년) 습의(襲衣) 원삼(圓衫) 일습(一襲) 복제품 제작을 통한 실제착의와 가상착의 비교 연구
Comparative Study of Actual and Virtual Fitting Through the Replication of the Wonsam Set of Madam Haepyeong Yoon's (1660-1701) Burial Attire 해평윤씨(1660∼1701년) 습의(襲衣) 원삼(圓衫) 일습(一襲) 복제품 제작을 통한 실제착의와 가상착의 비교 연구
This study fabricated and fitted both actual and virtual 3D replicas of Madam Haepyeong Yoon’s Wonsam set from her late 17th-century burial attire, and compared and analyzed the results. Form, dimensions, and sewing techniques were documented through hands-on examination and measurement of the artifacts, and ten garments were faithfully replicated primarily through hand sewing. Identical virtual garments were created in CLO 3D through pattern drafting, virtual sewing, and texturing. The primary aim was to technically overcome the layer collision and buffering issues that make digital fitting simulation of multi-layered Hanbok particularly challenging. Madam Haepyeong Yoon’s height was estimated at 148-150 cm based on the average stature of a Joseon woman (148.9 ± 4.6 cm), and a bust circumference of 80-82 cm was derived from the artifacts. These measurements were used for both the real and the virtual model. Challenges in virtual fitting of multi-layered Hanbok were resolved through unified avatar posing and stepwise adjustments of surface gap, pressure, and layer parameters, enabling stable implementation of the entire Wonsam set within a single virtual environment. Comparative analysis of the actual and virtual fitting confirmed high similarity in overall silhouette and detailed features.
An Iconological Study on the Representation of Female Sexuality in Fashion Magazines -Focusing on American Vogue since the 1970s- 패션 잡지 속 여성 섹슈얼리티 재현에 관한 도상학적 고찰 -1970년대 이후 미국 보그(Vogue)를 중심으로-
An Iconological Study on the Representation of Female Sexuality in Fashion Magazines -Focusing on American Vogue since the 1970s- 패션 잡지 속 여성 섹슈얼리티 재현에 관한 도상학적 고찰 -1970년대 이후 미국 보그(Vogue)를 중심으로-
This study examines the evolution of female sexuality in American Vogue editorial fashion photography from 1970 to June 2025. A total of 389 images were analyzed using an integrated framework combining Panofsky’s iconology and social semiotics, and 13 types of sexuality and five distinct periods shaped by socio-cultural shifts were identified. The findings reveal that although representations of women became more diverse over time, there was a persistent contradiction. Fashion images appeared to celebrate female empowerment and autonomy, but they also reinforced certain norms imposed by social power structures and market forces. In conclusion, while the scope of female imagery in fashion magazines has expanded, representations of women were ultimately reconstructed within the limits set by commercial logic and hierarchical power. This study demonstrates that fashion photography is not merely a reflection of trends but a complex field where female sexuality is constructed through the intersection of social demands, marketability, and power structures.
Key Words
Fashion magazine, Female sexuality, Vogue, Iconology, Social semiotics, 패션 잡지, 여성 섹슈얼리티, 보그, 도상해석학, 사회기호학
Social Interactions in Pro-Environmental Clothing Disposal Behaviors 친환경 의류 처분 행동에서의 사회적 상호작용
박세림 Serim Park , 허현주 Hyunjoo Hur , 전재훈 Jaehoon Chun
This study aims to explore the characteristics of pro-environmental clothing disposal behaviors―specifically selling, exchanging, sharing, and donating used clothing―and to analyze the social interactions experienced during them. A qualitative research method was employed that involved in-depth interviews with 21 adults who have actively engaged in more than two types of disposal behaviors. The results are as follows. First, there were distinct channels for each type of used-clothing disposal behavior: online platforms for selling, specific events for exchanging, personal networks for sharing, and professional organizations for donating. Second, regarding social interactions, three key themes emerged: the expansion of social networks, learning through shared experiences, and differences in interaction patterns based on tie strength. Participants formed new relationships or strengthened existing ones, and experienced different forms of communication and empathy depending on whether their social ties were weak or strong. This study highlights that clothing disposal involves more than just discarding items; it can be a sustainable consumption practice mediated by social relationships. The findings have practical implications for fostering a culture of clothing reuse through social connectivity.
Key Words
Pro-environmental clothing disposal behavior, Selling used clothing, Exchanging, Sharing and donation, Social interaction, 친환경 의류 처분 행동, 중고거래, 교환, 나눔 및 기부, 사회적 상호 작용
A Study on Factors Affecting Satisfaction with Shipyard Workwear 조선소 작업복의 만족도 영향 요인에 관한 연구
This study examines the effects of shipyard workwear-related fit and movement discomfort on workwear satisfaction among shipyard workers to provide basic data for its ergonomic design. To achieve this, workwear satisfaction was classified into two categories: functional and convenience. A survey was then conducted among 178 shipyard workers, with the data analyzed using factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis, and multiple regression analysis. The results showed that workwear satisfaction was subject to both functional and convenience satisfaction, and that movement discomfort could be classified into two strains―upper-body and lower-body―and fit could be classified into three: upper-body, lower-body, and pocket fit. Both functional and convenience satisfaction showed positive correlations with upper-body, lower-body, and pocket fit, but negative correlations with upper-body and lower-body movement discomfort. The multiple regression analysis revealed that lower-body fit and pocket fit had significant positive effects on functional satisfaction, whereas upper-body fit and pocket fit had significant positive effects on convenience satisfaction. These findings indicate that fit factors related to fit exert a greater influence on shipyard workwear satisfaction than those related to movement discomfort. In particular, pocket fit was identified as a common factor affecting both functional and convenience satisfaction.
Key Words
Functional design, Garment fit, Movement discomfort, Shipyard workwear, 기능적 디자인, 의복 맞음새, 동작 불편성, 조선소 작업복
A Study on the Development of DTP Pattern Fabric Samples for Reconstructing 14th-Century Goryeo Attire -Focusing on the Patterns of Women's Attire in the Human Realm as Depicted in Goryeo Buddhist Paintings- 14세기 고려 복식 재현을 위한 DTP 고증 문양직 샘플 개발 연구 -고려불화의 인간계 여성 복식 문양을 중심으로-
A Study on the Development of DTP Pattern Fabric Samples for Reconstructing 14th-Century Goryeo Attire -Focusing on the Patterns of Women's Attire in the Human Realm as Depicted in Goryeo Buddhist Paintings- 14세기 고려 복식 재현을 위한 DTP 고증 문양직 샘플 개발 연구 -고려불화의 인간계 여성 복식 문양을 중심으로-
This study aims to create designs and fabric samples of multicolored patterned textiles necessary for reconstructing women’s attire from the late Goryeo period, while proposing their uses based on their characteristics. As references for the designs, the study used the multicolored patterns found in the attire of attendants and female donors in Goryeo Buddhist paintings, as they clearly illustrate the overall composition and intended use. The targeted designs consist of three types―turtle shell pattern, flower-vine pattern, and line-decoration pattern―and the fabric samples were produced using DTP techniques, with materials woven similarly to those of Goryeo textiles. The first samples were used to evaluate the accuracy of the patterns and surface texture, with the designs for the second samples revised based on the fabric characteristics. The materials for the first samples included thin (12 M/M) silk twill, silk modal, and 16M/M silk satin, while the second samples consisted of 16 M/M silk twill, poly-chamoise satin, and cotton twill. The silk twill, a substitute for neung, was suitable for recreating ceremonial gowns and skirts, while the other fabrics, with their distinctive sheen or strong color, were suitable for recreating decorative parts.
Key Words
DTP techniques, Fabric sample, Late Goryeo period, Multicolored pattern, Women’s attire, DTP 기법, 원단 샘플, 고려 후기, 다색 문양, 여성 복식
Why Do Consumers Delegate Purchases in AI Agentic Commerce? -The Role of Algorithm Trust, Price Fairness, and Fashion Involvement- AI 에이전틱 커머스에서 소비자는 왜 구매를 위임하는가? -알고리즘 신뢰, 가격 공정성, 패션 관여도의 역할-
김하빈 Habin Kim
50(3) 691-706, 2026
Title
Why Do Consumers Delegate Purchases in AI Agentic Commerce? -The Role of Algorithm Trust, Price Fairness, and Fashion Involvement- AI 에이전틱 커머스에서 소비자는 왜 구매를 위임하는가? -알고리즘 신뢰, 가격 공정성, 패션 관여도의 역할-
김하빈 Habin Kim
DOI: Vol.50(No.3) 691-706, 2026
Abstract
As AI shopping agents proliferate in fashion retail, understanding the psychological conditions under which consumers willingly delegate purchase authority to algorithmic systems is becoming increasingly important. Drawing on the stimulus-organism-response (S-O-R) framework and algorithm appreciation theory, this study investigated how platform-level stimuli (system convenience and price transparency) shape algorithm trust and perceived price fairness, which in turn drive purchase delegation intention. Using PLS-SEM and moderated regression analysis with a sample of U.S. consumers experienced in using AI shopping agents (N = 292), all five main effect hypotheses were supported, with price transparency emerging as the dominant stimulus, strongly predicting both algorithm trust and price fairness perceptions. In particular, the effect of price fairness on delegation intention was significant only among high-involvement fashion consumers, as for them, a fair AI-proposed price represented more than an economic saving, constituting cognitive confirmation that the system accurately appraised the consumer’s aesthetic sensibility and style identity―an aesthetic agency mechanism that constitutes the distinctly fashion-specific contribution of the present study. Bootstrap mediation, meanwhile, confirmed significant indirect pathways through both psychological mediators. These findings advance the literature on agentic commerce adoption and carry practical implications for AI platform design and consumer segmentation in fashion retail.
Key Words
AI shopping agent, Purchase delegation intention, Algorithm trust, Price fairness, Fashion involvement, AI 쇼핑 에이전트, 구매 위임 의도, 알고리즘 신뢰, 가격 공정성, 패션 관여도
