Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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An Analysis of Hand Measurements for Designing Size Specification for Children's Gloves 아동용 장갑의 치수 규격 설계를 위한 손 치수 분석
Most apparel products have national standards for sizing; however, for gloves, national sizing standards have not yet been established. This study aims to analyze children's hand dimensions and propose a size specification for children's gloves that shows children's hand-related size information. Among the 3D measurements of sixth Size Korea Project, the measurement data of 19 dimensions related to the hands of 1,057 boys and girls aged 7-13 years old were analyzed. The distribution and growth trend of hand measurements for boys and girls demonstrated considerable mean differences and distribution trends by gender and age as per hand dimensions, which leads to the conclusion that it is necessary to show these results in the children's glove design. Based on these results, the cross-distribution maps of children's hand length and hand circumference were drafted; furthermore, the distribution relationship with an adult hand size was identified. Based on the distribution of hand sizes, the distribution of adult hand sizes overlapped with children's hand sizes was verified, and children's glove size specifications were presented. The results can be used as useful data such as measures for setting the size range and sizing system for children's gloves.
Key Words
Children, Glove, Hand’s dimension, Size specification, Size Korea data, 아동, 장갑, 손 항목, 사이즈 체계, 사이즈코리아 데이터
Recognizing the Types of Men’s Foundation Garments-Focusing on 30s and 40s Men- 남성 보정 속옷에 대한 인식유형 -30~40대 남성을 중심으로-
This study aimed to typify men's beliefs, perceptions, values, and attitudes, regarding foundation underwear, and examine the characteristics of each perception. Thirty-one statements on men's correctional underwear were selected, and Q classification was conducted with 20 men in their 30s and 40s as the P samples. Factors were extracted using principal component analysis and varimax rotation. Type 1 was the “fit improvement disadvantage cover type”, which covered the target area, and improved the clothing fit. Type 2 was referred to as the “highlighting the advantages of chest correction” type, that was used to improve chest correction and exercise efficiency. “Positive wear for compensation of the abdomen”, was listed as type 3, and was worn for abdominal correction. It was believed that type 3 could be used to correct body shape even if it was uncomfortable. Type 4, the “hip-up correction functional type”, emphasized functionality based on its hip-up correction design.
Key Words
Revision, Underwear, Recognition, Men, 보정, 속옷, 인식, 남성
Classification System of Fashion Emotion for the Standardization of Data 데이터 표준화를 위한 패션 감성 분류 체계
Accumulation of high-quality data is crucial for AI learning. The goal of using AI in fashion service is to propose of a creative, personalized solution that is close to the know-how of a human operator. These customized solutions require an understanding of fashion products and emotions. Therefore, it is necessary to accumulate data on the attributes of fashion products and fashion emotion. The first step for accumulating fashion data is to standardize the attribute with coherent system. The purpose of this study is to propose a fashion emotional classification system. For this, images of fashion products were collected, and metadata was obtained by allowing consumers to describe their emotions about fashion images freely. An emotional classification system with a hierarchical structure, was then constructed by performing frequency and CONCOR analyses on metadata. A final classification system was proposed by supplementing attribute values with reference to findings from previous studies and SNS data.
Key Words
Classification system, Fashion data, Fashion emotion, Hierarchical structure, Standardization, 분류 체계, 패션 데이터, 패션 감성, 계층구조, 표준화
Comparison of Avatar Posture Formation According to 3D Virtual Garment Modeling Programs-Focusing on Cycling Movements of High-School Male Cyclist-
The study aimed to analyze the functional differences in 3D virtual garment programs and compare body scan data with the corresponding 3D virtual models. We selected 3D virtual garment programs, formed virtual models in a representative size for high-school male cyclists, and analyzed them using the Design-X program. The results were as follows. In the 3D virtual garment programs, the anthropometric items for virtual model forming differed significantly from the standard anthropometric items suggested by Size Korea. Comparing the lower body scan data and virtual models formed by the 3D virtual garment programs, the biggest difference was in the shapes of the waist and hips, i.e., the flatness values of the waist and hips were different for each program in the cross-section view. In the lower body, a data-input-based program was needed for changing the exact measurement position of the waist circumference and hips' shape in detail. If a 3D virtual garment program provides functions for the virtual model's joint angle input and free motion transformation, it is expected to be widely used in the sportswear industry.
Key Words
3D virtual model, 3D virtual garment program, Body scan data
Prediction of Fabric Drape Using Artificial Neural Networks 인공신경망을 이용한 드레이프성 예측
This study aims to propose a prediction model for the drape coefficient using artificial neural networks and to analyze the nonlinear relationship between the drape properties and physical properties of fabrics. The study validates the significance of each factor affecting the fabric drape through multiple linear regression analysis with a sample size of 573. The analysis constructs a model with an adjusted R2 of 77.6%. Seven main factors affect the drape coefficient: Grammage, extruded length values for warp and weft (mwarp, mweft), coefficients of quadratic terms in the tensile-force quadratic graph in the warp, weft, and bias directions (cwarp, cweft, cbias), and force required for 1% tension in the warp direction (fwarp). Finally, an artificial neural network was created using seven selected factors. The performance was examined by increasing the number of hidden neurons, and the most suitable number of hidden neurons was found to be 8. The mean squared error was .052, and the correlation coefficient was .863, confirming a satisfactory model. The developed artificial neural network model can be used for engineering and high-quality clothing design. It is expected to provide essential data for clothing appearance, such as the fabric drape.
Key Words
Fabric drape, Physical property, Multiple linear regression, Artificial neural network, Number of hidden neurons, 직물의 드레이프성, 역학적 특성, 다중선형 회귀분석, 인공신경망, 은닉층 뉴런의 수
Development of a Pants Pattern for Chinese Women in Their 20s Using a Virtual Fitting Method
This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.
Key Words
Virtual fitting, Pants pattern, Average body shape, Chinese women in their 20s, Wearing evaluation
Survey on the Functional Clothing Design Factors for the Military Wearable Robot 육군 착용형 로봇을 장착하기 위한 기능성 의복 설계 요소 조사
This study aims to derive the design requirements for functional clothing worn with military wearable robots using a survey of people with military experience. Specifically, 982 adult males with military and muscular exercise experience were surveyed for their demands for the clothing worn with wearable robots during military activities. The study showed that it is necessary to develop functional clothing worn inside robots suitable for frequent movements of soldiers to improve their comfort level of wearable robots. The surveyed soldiers indicated that they preferred the top and bottom clothing with high-pressure levels because the upper body felt fatigued during transportation, while both the upper and lower body got exhausted during marches. The survey of design requirements revealed that the participants preferred a top with long sleeves and a bottom with ankle-length leggings in color similar to current military uniforms. We conclude that it is important to design functional clothing worn inside wearable robots in different forms depending on frequent movements, e.g., with differentiated pressures and material placements.
The “Escape the corset” movement raises the question of gender norms in dressing by rejecting the socially established ideal women's clothing. The context is similar to Rational dress of the 19th century, which claimed that women could also wear pants. Cartoons and webtoons reflect the characteristics of each era, including images and stories, and express social problems of the time implicitly and satirically. Thus, this study examined women's clothes expressed in cartoons and webtoons and analyzed their characteristics. The results are as follows. As an expression to the recipient of both clothes, women tried to form their identity through a rational attitude and break away from their embellishment, which was regarded as oppression from society. On the other hand, as an expression of the attitude of others towards the recipient of both clothes, people argued the changed appearance of women as a non-ideal form which should be corrected. This study is significant for proving that the dressing contains gender norms of the time beyond the trends.
Effect of Persimmon Juice Dyeing on Strength Properties of Jumchi-Hanjis Mixed with Korean and Thai Mulberry Fibers and Wood Pulp 국내산과 태국산 닥섬유 및 목재펄프가 혼합된 줌치한지의 감물염색에 따른 강도 특성
홍희숙 Heesook Hong , 김기억 Gi-eok Kim , 고정녀 Jungnye Koh
Effect of Persimmon Juice Dyeing on Strength Properties of Jumchi-Hanjis Mixed with Korean and Thai Mulberry Fibers and Wood Pulp 국내산과 태국산 닥섬유 및 목재펄프가 혼합된 줌치한지의 감물염색에 따른 강도 특성
홍희숙 Heesook Hong , 김기억 Gi-eok Kim , 고정녀 Jungnye Koh
This study compares the strength properties of Jumchi-Hanjis dyed with 70% and 100% persimmon juice concentrations and undyed Jumchi-Hanjis. The Juumchi-Hanjis were made from Dakjis (mulberry papers), which were mixed with different ratios of fibers from paper mulberries originating in Korea and Thailand, including wood pulp from Canada. Research results showed that tensile, wet tensile, and bursting strengths of Jumchi-Hanjis dyed with 70% concentration were higher than those of undyed Jumchi-Hanjis. However, the tearing strengths of the dyed Jumchi-Hanjis were lower than those of undyed Jumchi-Hanjis. The wet tensile strengths of Jumchi-Hanjis dyed with 100% concentration were higher than those of dyed with 70% concentration. The increase and decrease of tensile, tearing, and bursting strengths depending on persimmon juice dyeing differed as per the mixing ratio of the raw materials of Jumchi-Hanjis. Dyeing with 100% persimmon juice concentration tends to be more useful than 70% to increase the tensile (MD) and wet tensile strengths of Jumchi-Hanjis containing only Korean mulberry fibers (90%) and wood pulp (10%) as raw materials. Dyeing with 100% concentration tends to be less useful than 70% to increase the tensile, tearing and bursting strengths of Jumchi-Hanjis with high proportions (90% or 60%) of mulberry fibers from Thailand.
This study aims to confirm the possibility of Ultra-Violet (UV)-printed 3D printing materials using thermal polyurethane (TPU) with CMYK colors by applying an eco-friendly UV digital printing process. A UV-printed 3D printing TPU material was prepared with cycles of UV printing and CMYK colors. Dyeability of the 3D TPU samples with cycles of UV printing and CMYK were analyzed for thickness, weight, surface roughness, reflectance, colorimetry, and K/S values. The thickness and weight of 3D-printed TPU samples with cycles of UV printing are increased with overprints from 1 to 5. The surface roughness of 3D-printed TPU samples with increasing UV prints were decreased, meaning that the surface of TPU samples becomes gradually smoother. The reflectance spectra of CMYK UV-printed TPU samples showed the surface reflectance within each characteristic wavelength of CMYK. The 3D-printed TPU samples, subjected to UV printing twice or more, showed low surface reflectance. After examining the L*a*b* of the 3D-printed TPU samples by the cycles of UV printing, the study found that the more UV got printed more than 2 times, the closer the color to each CMYK.
Key Words
UV curable printing, FDM 3D printed TPU material, Cycles of UV printing, Surface roughness, Color measurement, UV 경화형 프린팅, FDM 3D 프린팅 TPU 소재, UV 프린팅 반복 횟수, 표면거칠기, 색상 측정
